This amber wine coats the palate with sweet fruit, savoury herbs and umami. Reminiscences of Nebbiolo without the tannin. Smoke, tobacco, dried apricots, wild flowers and smoke all add nuance on the finish. Utterly beguiling, mesmerisingly textured.
Gravner focuses on white varieties, he harvests late, routinely into November, encouraging botrytis where possible. In the past, he was a champion of ultra-modern wine making, but he rejected such manipulation and now ferments the wines in underground terracotta amphorae, an ancient type of vessel that represents the origins of wine making and the absence of technology. After resting on the skins until the following spring, the wines are racked into large oak casks, where they remain for 6 years – unheard of for white wines. No yeasts are added, and no sulphur. These are fascinating, textural masterpieces, displaying elegance and a lightness of touch, and above all, individuality.
Gravner Ribolla Anfora 2010
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